Why Isn’t Sustainable Fashion More Affordable?

The fast-fashion chain has, however, faced accusations of “greenwashing” from some campaigners, who argue that H&M’s entire business model – which requires selling large volumes of clothing at low prices – is the very antithesis of sustainability. H&M, however, argues it is fully committed to eventually becoming a “100 per cent circular business”, although there is clearly a long way to go before that can be achieved.

Another big concern is whether it’s possible for workers throughout the supply chain to be paid a living wage, considering the low prices that H&M is selling its products at. There’s been an increased focus on the treatment of garment workers, who were left in a desperate situation due to brands cancelling $3.18bn of orders in Bangladesh alone at the start of the pandemic (H&M has committed to paying for its orders in full). According to the Clean Clothes Campaign, up to 93 per cent of brands don’t pay a living wage to its suppliers. While H&M has outlined a strategy to create the “best preconditions for fair living wages,” campaigners have called for a more concrete commitment to ensure all workers are paid properly. 

Investing in sustainable brands 

All this means consumers, who are used to low prices, may have to pay more to ensure the garments they’re purchasing are being produced as sustainably and ethically as possible. “If you’re paying €3 for a shirt, let’s really think about what went into making that and the sacrifices that came along with [it],” Burns says. “That’s not to say a shirt needs to cost €900; I think there’s certainly an in-between [price].” 

The mantra “buy better and buy less” is helpful when considering the affordability of sustainable fashion; if you invest in a garment that you can wear for years to come, instead of wearing it a few times and discarding it, the cost per wear automatically becomes lower. “Change has to happen in consumption patterns, too,” she continues. “Buy less, but buy things that you want to keep for longer.” 

Consumer demand is what’s going to make sustainable fashion affordable for all – meaning that it’s important to support brands with strong eco-credentials, and ask more of those that aren’t currently doing enough. That will lead to brands investing more in sustainable materials and technologies and in turn, lead to prices falling. “It’s supply and demand; as demand evolves, the industry is working to match this demand,” Burns concludes. “There’s power in the decisions that consumers [make].”